No
formal work on the relationship between optics and diamond cutting appeared
until the twentieth century. Then, much later, in 1919 Marcel Tolkowsky -- a
member of a Belgian cutting family-- published a short paper entitled
Diamond Design. This was the first analysis of diamond cutting design based
on modern scientific theories of light behavior. Although Diamond design was
first published in England, Tolkowsky’s design is often called the “American
Ideal” because U.S. Cutters were the first to produce it in significant
quantities.
In the 1950’s AGS adopted Tolkowsky’s model as its standard for grading cut.
The only modification to the basic design were establishing limited ranges
for table size, crown height, pavilion depth and girdle thickness.
In 1995, the updated model was renamed the AGS Ideal Cut. The demand for
diamonds cut according to the AGS Ideal has increased substantially, and
today numerous cutters are producing designs
The AGS Ideal 0 Cut grade represents the very best in diamond cutting: AGS 0
is only assigned to a diamond in which correct proportions, precise
symmetry, and fine polish are combined to produce an optimum display of
brilliance, scintillation and dispersion. The impression is a harmonious
balance between the physical dimensions of the diamond and the optical
components of its beauty.
As diamond fall into grades further from 0, their relative beauty begins to
diminish, For example, a diamond with a cut grade 1 is very close to 0 in
appearance. A cut grade of 2 is still considered to have very fine
proportions and deliver exceptional brilliance.
A cut grade 5 diamond has variations that detract significantly from overall
appeal. It may appear somewhat “washed out or slightly dark through the
center. Cut grade 10 diamonds have, the worst examples of proportioning,
symmetry, and polish, so they have little visual life. |